If you’re ever in Botswana, be sure to include some time at Elephant Sands Bush Lodge – their tag line is “where elephants rule” and that’s exactly how it is!
The Lodge is ideally located halfway between Victoria Falls and the Okavango Delta so if you are travelling by road, it is a perfect halfway point to overnight. I was on a 25-day safari which had taken us from Victoria Falls across to Namibia and into Botswana. We were nearing the end of an epic adventure full of highlights and then our overland truck rolled into Elephant Sands and were completely blown away.
Nestled on a 16,000-hectare private conservancy, Elephant Sands features a selection of ensuite tents and chalets, along with a popular camping area for self-drivers. All accommodations are strategically arranged around a waterhole, providing guests with excellent wildlife viewing.
I loved my tent, which was spacious and featured a comfortable queen bed. Each tent is elevated on stilts, complete with a viewing balcony. The funniest moment was taking a shower in my ensuite, watching an elephant right outside my window trying to drink water from a drain he’d somehow accessed. Would he find a way to stretch his trunk into my shower I wondered? Thankfully, there are spikes around the bathroom areas to keep thirsty elephants at bay!
One of the golden rules here is to give way to elephants. As you walk from tent to lodge you must keep your eyes peeled and take refuge under the stilted tents if an elephant is coming through. Their tracks pass between tents so it can be quite a thrill to be lying on your bed or sitting on your deck and suddenly see a massive grey bulk stroll by. If they are thirsty it might be a full on run as they smell the water hole and thunder through with trunks raised.
Our group quickly settled in at the Lodge, making use of the bar and pool. We spent hours mesmerized by the real-life wildlife movie unfolding before us. Young bulls vying for space, while larger bulls battled for dominance, smashing their trunks and clashing tusks just meters from where we sat. At one point, over 30 elephants gathered at the waterhole, and we were completely awestruck, sitting like statues! There was no need for a David Attenborough commentary; we let the elephants provide the soundtrack.
As night fell, the waterhole was floodlit, and we enjoyed dinner before unwinding around a bushfire with a cold beer, settling in for more “bush TV” beneath a shimmering African sky. Elephants continued visiting throughout the night, making it difficult to tear myself away to bed. Walking back in the dark isn’t recommended—the lodge offers someone to either drive or walk you back for safety.
Over an early morning breakfast, we watched a young Mum and her baby showering themselves and taking a drink, before the males arrived and pushed them out.
Unfortunately, Botswana is experiencing an ongoing drought, which has been devastating for the wildlife. A huge thank you to the dedicated staff at Elephant Sands Lodge and donors who have raised funds to create new boreholes, set up pumps, and truck in water for the elephants when needed. 🩷
Each year Roam Travel Adventures teams up with The Safari Company (NZ) Ltd to complete an epic adventure in either Southern or East Africa. #tripofalifetime